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Rock Climbing: April 2009

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Spring Break in Red Rocks 2009

I was able to get out to Red Rocks again this year for my Spring Break.  I attended the Red Rocks Rendezvous, but it was a lot worse than last year for many reasons and I think if I go back to RR at that time of year, I'll probably just skip the Rendezvous.  The camping sucked, and they didn't even have any cool speakers!  
But the weather and climbing was awesome.  I would have liked to have gotten on more long trad routes, but I had a great time nonetheless.  
While I was there, I did the following climbs:

MULTI-PITCH 
Fold Out 
P1 -- 5.7.  I led. Super fun!
P2 -- 5.8. I led.  Not that fun, very run out at the traverse, scary, and not worth the crappy descent.  I'd recommend bringing a second rope and just rapping after the first awesome pitch.  
Bird Land
P1 -- 5.7?  I followed.  BL was really crowded so we did some kind of alternate start.  It felt 5.7ish, but was tricky to protect.  
P2 -- 5.7.  I led.  Fun.
P3 -- 5.7+.  I followed.  Not sure what the + was about -- didn't feel harder than the previous pitch to me.  
P4 -- 5.6.  I led.  Nice easy long pitch.  
P5 -- 5.7+.  I followed.  Short but sweet.  The last bit of this pitch is where the + rating comes from -- it does get a bit harder.  But at the more difficult section, protection is straightforward and abundant.  Most fun pitch on a fun route!  I was really wishing I'd gotten this lead!  
Great Red Book
P1 - 5.7.  I was going to lead, but got a bit sketched out and decided to hand the lead over.  I suppose it was a 5.7, but it felt harder to me.  And I really didn't think it was that fun either.  
P2 -- 5.8.  I really hated this climb.  Wouldn't do it again, wouldn't recommend it.  Then again, I'm not the hugest fan of dihedrals in general and I don't really like lie backs on lead (or following really).  But if that's your thing, you might like this climb.  

CRAGGING - TRAD
Moderate Mecca
Valentines Day -- 5.8+.  I led.  Really fun, but a committing lead!  It felt more like a 5.9 to me, but 5.8+ is a weird rating!  
Ace of Hearts -- 5.10d.  I TRd.  Since this climb shared anchors with Valentines Day, we decided to TR it.  Very fun!  All face climbing -- gear would go in a very thin crack.  
Abby Road.  5.4.  I followed.  Probably the best 5.4 I've ever done.  Would (and did) make a great first lead for anyone!  
Muckracker -- 5.8.  I led.  The start was a bit scary/difficult.  But the rest was very easy.  Fun route.  

CRAGGING - SPORT
The Great Red Book Area
Subject Verb Agreement -- 5.8.  I led.  Fun!
Dangling Participles -- 5.8.  I led.  Long and fun!  
Ground up Vocabulary.  5.8.  I TRd.  Fun, but run out -- especially at the bottom.  
The Black Corridor
Fool's Gold -- 5.10b.  I followed
Texas Tea -- 5.10c.  I followed.
Black Gold -- 5.10a.  I led.
Sweet Pain Wall
Pain in the Neck - 5.10a.  I followed.  Hardest 10a I've ever climbed.  Very awkward.  Way harder than anything we did in The Black Corridor -- and not all that fun either.  
Magic Bus
Zipperhead -- 5.8 trad.  I led.  Fun easy climb.  Felt easier than 5.8.  
Ken Queasy -- 5.8.  I followed.  Fun and easy, but very run out!!  The book calls it mixed, but neither of us saw anywhere to put gear.  It's just a run-out sport route.  
Technicolor Sunrise -- 5.8.  I led.  Fun and easy.